"Lolita"
Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and GothLoli is often worn by teens, most followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. Adherents present themselves as Victorian children or baby dolls and prefer to look "cute" rather than "sexy". Many Lolitas claim that the term 'lolita' doesn't necessarily have anything to do with sex at all. The usage of the word may also be considered wasei-eigo. Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon. __________________________________________________________________________________
Goth Loli culture
In Japan it is mass-marketed and has wide visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga (see Paradise Kiss by Ai Yazawa for an example of gothloli inspired manga) and computer games. Outside of Japan it is still a fringe fashion although it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Gothic Lolita, along with Cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout Europe and the United States. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan. However, there are plenty of dedicated fans filling the gap. Gothic Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in anime and manga. Adherents in Europe and the United States often sew their own homemade Gothic Lolita outfits, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan. __________________________________________________________________________________
Gothic Lolita in the West
Many Goth girls in the west, have borrowed from the Japanese goth loli style, and have created a market for this style of clothing (particulary in online auctions). Americas Tokyopop recently comissioned, along with performer Courtney Love (who is not goth/goth loli herself, but is a former Japanese resident) an original manga in the goth loli style, called Princess Ai. This was the first (at least publicised) Japan/West goth loli collaboration. __________________________________________________________________________________
Gothic & Lolita Bible
One magazine in particular, the irregularly published Gothic & Lolita Bible, has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, decorating ideas, and even recipes. __________________________________________________________________________________
Shopping
Currently the heart of the Gothic Lolita subculture, at least commercially, is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothloli and related fashions. __________________________________________________________________________________
Malice Mizer
Malice Mizer was a Japanese band in the visual kei music scene, active from August 1992 to December 2001. Formed by Mana and Közi, the band's name stands for malice and misery – their answer to the question "what is human?". Malice Mizer were as famous for their one-of-a-kind music as for their spectacular 'live shows, featuring lavish historical costumes and stage sets, whimsical dance routines and band members flying suspended from wires. During their rocky history, the band went through several different lineups and three drastic image changes but their work always maintained the highest professional standards. On December 11, 2001, it was announced that Malice Mizer would begin an indefinite hiatus, and the members went their separate ways - effectively disbanding the group. __________________________________________________________________________________
Lolita Genre- Lolita can be classified into "Classical Lolita", "Gothic Lolita", "Sweet Lolita", "Kimono Lolita", "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" and "Kodona".
Classic Lolitas are more traditional, and the fashion has a more Victorian, mature look featuring light-colored clothing. Traditional Maid-style clothing and Alice in Wonderland-style aprons may be classfied into this genre.
Gothic Lolitas, influenced by certain elements of gothic fashion, have probably become the most popular style within Lolita fashion and certainly the most recognized in the west. This style started as a youth subculture sometime around 1997/1998 and became a well-established genre available in various boutiques and some major department stores by around 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the "Kogal" aesthetic.
Gothic Lolita clothes are usually black in color, or with a dark theme. Makeup is usually dark in color, in contrast with other Lolita genre where lovely and light color makeup is preferred. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is usually seen.
Goken Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "goken" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Also, many Goken Lolita own Super Dollfies and carry them around.
Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularised by the imagery of more feminine Visual Kei (or "visual rock") bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of rock music defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate costumes but whose musical style varies. Mana, the crossdressing former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer is widely credited for having helped popularise Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the Gothic Lolita scene.
Sweet Lolitas, also known as Ama Lolitas are generally clad in light-colored, (although there are black/white sweet lolitas), outfits containing a fairly high amount of lace and frill. The length of the dresses tends to be around the knees or a little shorter and concentrate on looking "sweet" and as cute as possible. The fabric used may consist of not just solid colours but floral and fruit prints as well, the end result being something sweet, little-girlish and doll like. ( Such as Momoko in Shimotsuma Monotagari aka Kamikazwe girls )
Kimono Lolita, or Wa Lolitas are, as the name suggests, the combination of Kimono syles and Lolita fashion. Often a simplified Kimono top will be worn with a Lolita skirt. "Wa Lolita" comes from the reference to Japan as "The Land of Wa" (harmony). There are also "Qi Lolitas", which are a combination of Lolita style and Chinese clothing such as the qipao.
The Elegant Gothic Aristocrat style strays away from the shorter frilly dresses and leans more towards the floor length dresses with bustles and collars that reach to your chin. The Elegant Gothic Aristocrat or EGA is more refined and mature than the child like essence the general Lolita fashion holds. They look lengthing and thin with their fully covering garb and corsettes. You wouldn't catch one with a peter-pan collar and puff sleeves. They are the embodiment of 1800's era elegance.
The Kodona style is almost barely lolita. A good shop to properly show what it is would be Putumayo. The Kodona style is more of a masculine version of gothic lolita. With Platform shoes, trousers,striped socks and male style blouses, the style leans to a more casual gothic lolita/visual kei look.
Anime and Manga Characters dressed in Lolita style may be found in numerous anime and manga, some of the most prominent being Kamikaze Girls, Card Captor Sakura, Paradise Kiss, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, Rozen Maiden, Tsukuyomi - Moon Phase, Othello, Chobits and xxxHOLiC. |